The Dry Cleaning Myth: Why You Are Cleaning Your Suits to Death

There is a misconception that to take care of a suit, you must send it to the cleaners.

In reality, the dry cleaner is often the enemy of the bespoke garment.

A high-quality suit is an organic entity. It is made of natural fibers (wool, cashmere, silk) and constructed with natural canvases (horsehair). When you subject these materials to the harsh industrial processes of a standard dry cleaner, you aren't preserving the suit; you are slowly killing it.

Here is the truth about suit maintenance and how to keep your garments looking pristine for decades, not just seasons.

1. Chemical Warfare vs. Natural Oils

Wool is hair. Like human hair, it contains natural oils (lanolin) that give it elasticity, softness, and a subtle luster. Dry cleaning uses harsh chemical solvents to strip away dirt—but they also strip away the lanolin. If you dry clean a suit too often, the fabric becomes brittle, the color dulls, and the fibers eventually snap. This leads to the dreaded "shine" you see on old, cheap suits. The Rule: Dry clean only when there is a visible stain that cannot be spot-cleaned. For odors, air and steam are your friends.

2. The Flattening of the Form

A custom suit has a three-dimensional shape. The lapel rolls gently; the chest has a curve. This is achieved through careful steaming and canvas construction. Most cleaners use industrial presses that smash the garment flat with immense heat and pressure. They press the life out of the lapel roll, creating a flat, sharp crease where a soft curve should be. Once a lapel is pressed flat, the soul of the jacket is gone.

3. The Power of the Brush

If you stop dry cleaning, how do you stay clean? You invest in a high-quality horsehair brush. After every wear, a vigorous brushing removes the dust and microscopic particles that settle into the weave. These particles act like sandpaper, cutting the fibers over time. Brushing removes them without chemicals.

4. The 24-Hour Recovery

Wool is hygroscopic—it absorbs moisture from the environment and your body. Never wear the same suit two days in a row. The fibers need at least 24 hours to relax, release moisture, and spring back to their original shape. Rotation is not just about style; it is about engineering.

The Bottom Line

A custom suit is not a T-shirt. It does not need to be washed after every wear. Treat it with the same respect you would treat a vintage car or fine leather. Less is more.